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Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous District
The Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous District is an integral part of the Ural Federal District of the Russian Federation. It is part of the Tyumen region. Neighbors with the Komi Republic, Krasnoyarsk Territory, Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug and Nenets Autonomous Okrug. The territory of the region is 769,250 square kilometers. The population is 546 170 people. Of these: 58.9 percent are Russians; 13.03 - Ukrainians; 5.47 percent are Tatars; 5.21 percent are the Nenets. Urban residents - 84.9 percent. The district consists of seven districts. The administrative center of the Yamal-Nenets Autonomous Okrug is the city of Salekhard.The Yamal-Nenets National District was formed in December 1930 as part of the Ural Region. Later it was a part of the Obsko-Irtysh and Omsk regions. Included in Tyumenskaya in August 944. The region received its modern name and the status of an autonomous okrug in 1977. Since 1992 - a full-fledged constituent entity of the Russian Federation. The location of the Autonomous Okrug is the center of the Far North of Russia, the arctic zone of the West Siberian Plain. From the northernmost mainland point of the region to the Arctic Circle - eight hundred kilometers. Most of the district's territory is located beyond the Arctic Circle. The Yamal Peninsula is located on the territory of this region. The relief is flat. Forest-tundra with numerous lakes and bogs, tundra and mountainous part. The height of the mountain range located in the west of the Autonomous Okrug is one and a half thousand meters. The region's water resources are rich and varied. The coast of the Kara Sea, numerous rivers (48 thousand), swamps, lakes (about 300 thousand), bays (including one of the largest in the Russian Arctic). The largest rivers: Ob, Pur, Taz, Nadym. On the territory of the district there are large reserves of artesian underground waters, including thermal ones. The Yellow Pages will tell you that this region is the leader in oil and natural gas reserves. It is on its territory that the most famous fields are located: Urengoyskoye and Nakhodkinskoye gas, Ety-Purovskoye oil, Yuzhno-Russkoye oil and gas, Yamburgskoye oil and gas condensate.
Our Internet reference book SPR (http://www.spr.ru) will provide you with information on the basis of the economy of the Yamal-Nenets region - oil and gas production. OJSC Gazprom is the main producer of blue gold. More than thirty enterprises, whose addresses and phone numbers are included in our unique catalog of organizations, are producing gas condensate and oil. The Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug is also amazing for its reindeer transport developed in remote areas. Fur trade, animal husbandry and reindeer husbandry are flourishing in the region.
A new gas production center is being actively formed on the Yamal Peninsula, which in the future will become one of the main centers for the development of the Russian gas industry. Yamal will produce up to 360 billion cubic meters. m of blue fuel per year.
place of Birth
trillion m 3 of gas
billion tons of gas condensate
million tons of oil
place of Birth
trillion m 3 of gas
billion tons of gas condensate
million tons of oil
- Bovanenkovskoye, Kharasaveyskoye stable condensate per year.
Tambey industrial zone
Consists of six fields: North-Tambeyskoye, Zapadno-Tambeyskoye, Tasiyskoye, Malyginskoye (licenses are held by the Gazprom Group), Yuzhno-Tambeyskoye and Syadorskoye.Southern industrial zone
It includes nine fields: Novoportovskoye (the license belongs to the Gazprom Group), Nurminskoye, Malo-Yamalskoye, Rostovtsevskoye, Arkticheskoye, Sredne-Yamalskoye, Khambateyskoye, Neitinskoye, Kamennomysskoye. The zone is considered as a priority oil production facility with a maximum annual level of 7 million tons.- A new generation gas transmission corridor from the Bovanenkovskoye field to Ukhta has been created for a unified gas supply system for Russia. Year-round oil export is carried out through the Arctic Gates offshore oil terminal.
Infrastructure
A full-fledged system of industrial and life support has been formed: highways, power plants, a rotational camp, industrial bases, the Obskaya - Bovanenkovo \u200b\u200b- Karskaya railway with a length of 572 km, an airport.
The number of deposits is 32.
Total reserves and resources of all fields on the Yamal Peninsula: 26.5 trillion cubic meters m of gas, 1.6 billion tons of gas condensate, 300 million tons of oil.
Video about the Yamal megaproject, 3 minutes
Production in Yamal:
In 2018 - 87.4 billion cubic meters. m of gas.
In the future - up to 360 billion cubic meters. meters of gas per year.
Megaproject structure
Bovanenkovo \u200b\u200bindustrial zone
It has the main production potential and includes three fields - Bovanenkovskoye, Kharasaveyskoye, Kruzenshternskoye (licenses held by the Gazprom Group). Gross production here is estimated at 217 billion cubic meters. meters of gas and 4 million tons of stable condensate per year.
Tambey industrial zone
Consists of six fields: Severo-Tambeyskoye, Zapadno-Tambeyskoye, Tasiyskiy, Malyginskoye (licenses held by the Gazprom Group), Yuzhno-Tambeyskoye and Syadorskoye.
Southern industrial zone
It includes nine fields: Novoportovskoye (the license belongs to the Gazprom Group), Nurminskoye, Malo-Yamalskoye, Rostovtsevskoye, Arkticheskoye, Sredne-Yamalskoye, Khambateyskoye, Neitinskoye, Kamennomysskoye. The zone is considered as a priority oil production facility with a maximum annual level of 7 million tons.
Hydrocarbon transportation system
To transfer gas from the Yamal Peninsula to the Unified Gas Supply System of Russia, a new generation gas transmission corridor has been created from the Bovanenkovskoye field to Ukhta. Year-round oil export is carried out through the Arctic Gates offshore oil terminal.
Infrastructure
A full-fledged system of industrial and life support has been formed: highways, power plants, a rotational camp, industrial bases, the Obskaya - Bovanenkovo \u200b\u200b- Karskaya railway with a length of 572 km, an airport.
Implementation of the project
The largest Yamal field in terms of proven gas reserves is Bovanenkovskoye. The primary development target is the Cenomanian-Aptian deposits. In 2012, the first gas facility (GP-2) was commissioned at the field, the second (GP-1) in 2014, and the third (GP-3) in 2018. The total design capacity of the three fields is 115 billion cubic meters. meters of gas per year. In the future, with the commissioning of the Neocomian-Jurassic deposits, the design capacity of the Bovanenkovskoye field will increase to 140 billion cubic meters. meters of gas per year.
In 2012, the Bovanenkovo \u200b\u200b- Ukhta gas trunkline was commissioned, and at the beginning of 2017, the Bovanenkovo \u200b\u200b- Ukhta - 2 gas pipeline.
In 2016, the Novoportovskoye oil field and the Arctic Gate offshore oil terminal were brought into commercial operation.
The President of Russia launched the shipment of the first tanker with oil through the "Gates of the Arctic", 6 minutes (Russia 24)
Advanced technical solutions
Overcoming the harsh natural and climatic conditions of Yamal, Gazprom made the peninsula a springboard for the use of highly efficient, safe, innovative technologies and technical solutions.
Megaproject "Yamal" has no analogues in terms of complexity. Hydrocarbons are concentrated in a remote area with extremely harsh climatic conditions. The peninsula is characterized by the presence of permafrost, a long winter period and low temperatures (down to −50 ° C). In summer, 80% of the Yamal territory is covered with lakes, swamps and rivers, which significantly limits the areas where industrial facilities can be reliably located. Gazprom has applied highly efficient, safe and innovative technologies and technical solutions on the peninsula. Many of them, ordered by the company, were developed specifically for Yamal by leading Russian scientific institutes and domestic enterprises.
Mining technologies
At the Bovanenkovskoye field, for the first time in Russia, a unified production infrastructure is used to extract gas from Cenomanian (depth 520-700 m) and Aptian-Albian (depth 1200-2000 m) deposits. This approach provides significant savings in construction costs, reduces construction time and increases the efficiency of field operation.
Field development began with lower gas reservoirs with higher reservoir pressure. As the pressure is equalized, the deposits located above are brought into development. The low-pressure Cenomanian reservoir is put into development last to compensate for the natural decline in gas production from the Aptian deposits. Accordingly, separate groups of production wells are created for different deposits, which are gradually connected to a single gas gathering network.
Difficult landscape conditions predetermined the need to update the regulatory framework for well construction design. The new standards made it possible to bring wellheads closer together in a cluster from 40 m to 15-20 m, to minimize the allotment areas and the volume of engineering preparation of territories for well clusters, access roads and other communications, and at the same time ensure the required level of industrial safety.
The fields of the Bovanenkovskoye field have achieved a high level of automation of technological processes using sparsely populated technologies. In particular, for the first time Gazprom introduced into operation automated well connection modules (MOS-2), designed to control and manage Christmas trees and ensure reliable operation of wells in conditions of hydrate formation.
Preparation of produced gas for transportation is carried out by the most modern and environmentally friendly method of low-temperature separation using domestic turbo expanders.
Transportation technologies
Yamal gas is transported to the Unified Gas Supply System of Russia via new generation gas pipelines at a pressure of 11.8 MPa (120 atm.). A record pressure for onshore gas pipelines was achieved primarily due to the use of domestic pipes with a diameter of 1,420 mm, made of steel grade K65 (X80) with an inner smooth coating, developed by Gazprom's order.
The most technically challenging section in the construction of the gas transportation system was the underwater crossing through the Baydaratskaya Bay. It is distinguished by special natural and climatic conditions: at a shallow depth, it is characterized by frequent stormy weather, complex bottom sediments and freezing to the bottom in winter. Here they used concrete pipes with a diameter of 1219 mm, designed for a pressure of 11.8 MPa. The laying of a gas pipeline in such difficult natural conditions and with such technical parameters became the first such construction experience not only in Russia, but also in world practice.
The Arctic Gate offshore oil terminal located in the water area of \u200b\u200bthe Gulf of Ob is also a unique structure. The terminal is designed to work in extreme conditions: the temperature in the region drops even below -50 ° C, the ice thickness can exceed two meters. It has a two-level protection system and meets the most stringent requirements in the field of industrial safety and environmental protection. The terminal equipment is fully automated and reliably protected from water hammer. A special system allows instant disconnection of the terminal and the tanker, while maintaining the tightness of the disconnected elements. The "zero discharge" technology excludes the ingress of any foreign substances into the water area of \u200b\u200bthe Ob Bay, which is extremely important for preserving the ecology of the Arctic. In addition, the subsea pipeline connecting the terminal to the offshore tank farm is protected by an additional concrete shell.
Infrastructure technologies
The Obskaya - Bovanenkovo \u200b\u200b- Karskaya railroad (572 km), specially built by Gazprom, provides a reliable all-weather connection between the Yamal Peninsula and the mainland and year-round freight and passenger transportation. There are no analogues of this railway in the world, taking into account the climatic conditions in which it has to function.
To preserve the bearing capacity of the permafrost, the construction of the main facilities was carried out only at subzero temperatures. The railroad embankment was built of wet dusty sand, which acquires the necessary strength under the influence of low temperatures. To ensure the stability of the roadbed structure in the summer months, a unique layer-by-layer thermal insulation system was developed and applied (expanded polystyrene was laid over the frozen sand, geotextile clips were built).
The bridge crossing over the floodplain of the Yuribey River has become the most difficult section of the railway. It has no analogues in the practice of bridge building both in terms of design features and climatic and geocryological conditions of construction and operation, and is the longest bridge in the world beyond the Arctic Circle (length 3.9 km).
The bridge was erected on a ground practically unsuitable for construction - it is permafrost interspersed with cryopegs (salt and dust solutions that are in the permafrost and do not freeze even at negative temperatures from -10 to -30 ° C). The spans and girders of the bridge are mounted on supports made of metal pipes with a diameter of 1.2 to 2.4 meters, filled with reinforced concrete. The supports go into the permafrost to a depth of 20 to 40 meters. Thanks to modern technologies and special freezing (thermal stabilization), the supports literally freeze with ice (permafrost), which provides the bridge with additional stability.
Caring for nature
When constructing facilities, Gazprom is primarily concerned with preserving the unique Yamal nature. The smallest possible area is allocated for technological objects, and vapor-liquid heat stabilizers and heat-insulated pipes for wells significantly reduce the impact on permafrost. Closed water supply systems exclude pollution of water bodies and soil. Constant environmental monitoring is carried out.
During the construction of gas wells, a technological scheme for processing drilling waste by solidification to obtain building material was implemented. The technology is based on the method of encapsulating drill cuttings on a specialized mixing plant. Building encapsulated material is used in the construction of facilities at the Bovanenkovskoye field, namely, for filling pads, forming and maintaining the embankment of road slopes.
The Yamal deposits are located in the original territory of nomadic reindeer herders, therefore Gazprom conducts production activities taking into account the interests of the tundra residents. The company pays great attention to the organization and conduct of events that contribute to the socio-economic development and preservation of the traditional culture of the indigenous small-numbered peoples of the North. In particular, the sites for reindeer herding brigades and the paths for reindeer touching have been determined, where special crossings for reindeer through engineering communications have been built.
A program is being implemented to increase the population of northern commercial fish.
Alexey Miller, Chairman of the Gazprom Management Committee: “No country in the world has created anything like this in the Arctic. This is an unprecedented project in the history of the global gas industry. By creating a fundamentally new gas production center
There is simply no unified road network in the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug. The development of the okrug took place in a localized manner, therefore, in the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug on the map of Russia, the roads are also concentrated in separate “centers”. Most of the roads available are seasonal and unpaved. Winter roads are not always open for road transport even in winter.
The scheme of road and railway tracks in reality and on the satellite map of the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous District is gradually changing. A plan is being implemented in the region to create a network of all-season hard-surface roads (asphalt, concrete). Among other things, it is planned to lay routes that will connect the polar regions of the Okrug with the “mainland”.
The Yamal Railway Company is developing the railway network, the main shareholders of which are the administration of the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug, Sevtyumentransput and the Sverdlovsk railway.
Partially completed railways:
- the line from Obskaya to Nadym through Salekhard;
- line Korotchaevo - Igarka;
- line Polunochnaya - Obskaya-2.
Parts of all lines are in operation, all three are in need of completion and partial restoration. The completion of the railway to Obskaya-2 has been suspended due to insufficient confidence in the feasibility of laying.
Large cities and towns of the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous District
On the map of the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug with districts, one can count one and a half dozen settlements with a population of over 5000 people and seven municipal districts. The population of Salekhard, the administrative center, does not reach 50 thousand people. In two cities of the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug, the population is twice as large: in Noyabrsk (about 107 thousand people) and Novy Urengoy (about 115 thousand people).
The Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug is located in the north of Western Siberia in the lower reaches of the Ob River. In the north, it is washed by the Kara Sea. On the map of the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug, the Yamal Peninsula is clearly expressed; its eastern coast is washed by one of the largest bays in the Arctic - the Ob Bay, with a length of about 800 km. Half of the district's territory is located beyond the Arctic Circle, which means that there are polar days and polar nights.
The area of \u200b\u200bthe Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug is 769,250 sq. Km, occupied mainly by plains and pitted by the channels of such rivers as the Ob, Pur, Nadym and Taz.
The development of the northern lands began in the 60s of the last century, and thanks to the rich natural resources, the region grew and developed rapidly. Here oil and natural gas are extracted and transported to other regions of the country. To this day, these places attract people with high salaries, winter harsh romance and beauty. The indigenous population is the Nenets (Samoyeds), and many tribes continue to live the same way as many years ago. They lead a nomadic lifestyle, are engaged in reindeer husbandry, hunting and fishing.
Salekhard (Nenets "city on a cape") is the administrative center of Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug. It is not the largest city in the region. In terms of population, it is inferior to the cities of Novy Urengoy and Noyabrsk.
The climate of the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug is harsh. Winter lasts 8 months with snowstorms, fogs, and the temperature can drop to -60 C. Summer is unusually warm, but short-lived. Here magnetic storms cause one of the most beautiful natural phenomena - the northern lights.
Despite the cold weather, many tourists visit the region. They strive to visit the northernmost nature reserve in Russia - Gydansky - which has preserved the culture of the local population, go on an ethnographic tour or go in for mountain skiing. Water sports enthusiasts descend the rugged mountain rivers, try their hand at fishing and enjoy the harsh northern beauty.
Tourist notes
Gulrypsh - a summer cottage for celebrities
There is an urban-type settlement Gulrypsh on the Black Sea coast of Abkhazia, the appearance of which is closely associated with the name of the Russian philanthropist Nikolai Nikolaevich Smetsky. In 1989, due to the illness of his wife, they needed to change the climate. Case decided the matter.My friend Marat Efremov works as a gas worker on the Yamal Peninsula, and now he is on another watch, so he keeps complaining why there are articles on our website about all places in Russia - but not about the legendary Yamal!?!
Now it's time to make an article about this wonderful land!
Far, far, beyond the Polar Urals, to the east - meet the sun, as our ancestors said, on the shores of the endless Kara Sea, beyond the Yugorsky Peninsula, lies the land of Yamal, and in translation - this is the edge of the Earth!
Endless tundra, millions of lakes, bird caravans, in winter - aurora borealis, in spring - false suns, and in summer a riot of short flowering!
Yamal is the treasury of Russia! Pensions, salaries for teachers, doctors and military men, schools, hospitals, military power, well-fed life in megacities - all this rests on the riches that have been discovered by generations of Russian pioneers and geologists!
map of Yamal, Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug 
Yamal is a peninsula in the north of Western Siberia, on the territory of the Yamal-Nenets Autonomous Okrug of Russia. The length of the peninsula is 700 km, width is up to 240 km. It is washed by the Kara Sea and the Ob Bay.
The landscapes of the peninsula are represented by tundra, in the south - forest-tundra areas. Lakes are numerous.
The peninsula is poorly developed by humans. Reindeer breeding and fishing are carried out. The largest natural gas deposits are located on the peninsula.
Etymology
In the "Brief report on the journey to the Yamal Peninsula" by BM Zhitkov in 1909, the following interpretation of the name of the peninsula is given: "The exact Samoyed name of the peninsula is Y-mal, the combination of the words I (earth) and small (end)." The Latvian Jurmala is called similarly: jura ("sea") + mala ("edge, edge").
Geography
The Yamal Peninsula is located in the north of Western Siberia, from the west it is washed by the Kara Sea (including its Baydaratskaya Bay), from the east - by the Ob Bay. In the north of the peninsula, behind the narrow Malygin Strait, there is Bely Island.
Located from 68 ° n. sh. up to 73 ° N sh. and from 66 ° east. d. to 73 ° E etc.
The relief of Yamal is extremely flat, the height differences do not exceed 90 m. The average height of the peninsula is about 50 meters.
At the base of the Yamal, there is a plate of the Epipaleozoic platform with a Meso-Cenozoic sedimentary cover. No protrusions of the crystalline basement are observed. Many natural gas fields are concentrated in Yamal, mainly located in the south and west coast of the peninsula. The explored gas reserves for 2009 amount to 16 trillion cubic meters.
Novy Urengoy - polar night Yamal Peninsula 
Minerals
About 20% of Russia's natural gas reserves are concentrated in Yamal. 11 gas and 15 oil and gas condensate fields have been discovered on the peninsula and adjacent waters, the explored and preliminary estimated (ABC1 + C2) gas reserves of which are about 16 trillion m³, prospective and predicted (C3-D3) gas resources - about 22 trillion m³. Condensate reserves (ABC1) are estimated at 230.7 million tons, oil - at 291.8 million tons. In the short term, Yamal will become the main gas production region in Russia and one of the largest in the world.
Most of the natural gas reserves are concentrated in five unique (reserves\u003e 500 billion m³) fields: Bovanenkovskoye, Kharasaveyskoye, Yuzhno-Tambeyskoye, Kruzenshternovskoye and Severo-Tambeyskoye. Also explored 13 large deposits (reserves 30-500 billion m3), three medium (10-30 billion m3) and five small (< 10 млрд м³). Несмотря на 700 глубоких поисковых и разведочных скважин, геологическая изученность полуострова остается низкой, в среднем 1 скважина приходится на 305 км² территории, что на порядок ниже южных районов Западно-Сибирской нефтегазоносной провинции. Это позволяет надеяться на значительный прирост разведанных запасов углеводородов, а также открытие новых месторождения на шельфе.
Gas fields in Yamal are distinguished by a greater depth of occurrence, in comparison with the already developed fields, as well as by the chemical composition of the gas. Deep-seated gas-bearing strata contain so-called "rich" gas, with a high content of propane, butane and pentane, which are of greater value than the main constituents of natural gas - methane and ethane. In particular, a propane-butane mixture is an environmentally friendly motor fuel that can be stored in a liquefied form over a wide temperature range. However, "wet" gas cannot be transported through pipelines without complex preliminary preparation, during which a "dry" gas is obtained, consisting almost exclusively of methane and ethane. The rest of the components are separated into a separate fraction and transported in a liquefied state, in tanks or tankers, or burned in flares.
tundra - in the distance Labytnangi Yamal Peninsula 
Development of gas fields
Drilling exploration works were launched in 1963. Continuous swampy terrain forced to carry out work mainly in winter, when it was possible to transport heavy drilling equipment, despite frosts down to -50 degrees Celsius and squally winds. For the delivery of equipment and materials, the delivery of goods by the Murmansk Shipping Company was organized, as a result, several ultra-early Arctic voyages were carried out with cargo for oil workers.
In December 1964, the first field was discovered - the Novoportovskoye oil and gas condensate field. In the period from the late 1960s to the late 1980s. new deposits were discovered almost every year. Including Bovanenkovskoye in 1971, Kharasaveyskoye and South-Tambeyskoye in 1974, Kruzenshternovskoye in 1976, North-Tambeyskoye in 1983.
At the end of the 1970s, the volume of exploration drilling in already known fields increased significantly. For example, at the Novoportovskoye field in 1978-1985. 80 wells were drilled in addition to the existing 29. The contours of the deposits and the volume of reserves were clarified. In the mid-1980s. plans were adopted for the industrial development of the gas resources of the peninsula. In 1987, the feasibility study was completed. The Bovanenkovskoye field was planned to be commissioned in 1991, producing 20 billion cubic meters of natural gas. In 1992, it was planned to produce 50 billion cubic meters of gas, and by the end of the 1990s. to produce up to 200 billion cubic meters annually, having also developed the Kharasaveyskoye field. In 1988, it was planned to launch the construction of the Yamal-Torzhok-Uzhgorod gas pipeline. However, in March 1989, amid the crisis of the Soviet economy, the financing of industrial development projects was stopped.
At the beginning of the 1990s, the pace of drilling also decreased tenfold, although they were never completely interrupted. A new stage of development began after 2002, when Gazprom identified Yamal as a region of the company's strategic interests. Yamal Peninsula 
At present, four fields have been prepared for industrial development - Bovanenkovskoye, Kharasaveyskoye, Kruzenshternovskoye and Novoportovskoye. In 2006 Gazprom started commercial development of the Bovanenkovskoye field and the construction of a main gas pipeline. In 2008, drilling of production wells began here. Initially, the commissioning of the field was scheduled for 2011, now - for 2012. The design volume of gas production at the Bovanenkovskoye field is determined at 115 billion cubic meters per year, in the long term - up to 140 billion cubic meters per year.
It is assumed that by 2015 the volume of gas production in Yamal will amount to 75-115 billion cubic meters (at the Bovanenkovskoye field), in 2020 - 135-175 billion cubic meters, by 2025 - 200-250 billion cubic meters, by 2030 - 310-360 billion m³.
In addition, as part of the development of natural gas deposits on the peninsula, it is planned to build a gas liquefaction plant (a project by Novatek, Yamal LNG). In accordance with the Comprehensive Plan for the Development of LNG Production on the Yamal Peninsula, the first stage of the LNG plant is to be built in 2012-2016, the second line was commissioned in 2017, and the third in 2018. The main source of raw materials will be the Yuzhno-Tambeyskoye field. LNG transportation systems will be handled by OJSC Novatek, OJSC Sovcomflot and the Ministry of Transport of Russia.
The total estimated volume of investments in the development of gas fields in Yamal in 2010 was estimated by government experts at 6.8-8 trillion rubles. for 25 years.
Nadym region Yamal Peninsula 
Railway
The Obskaya - Bovanenkovo \u200b\u200b- Karskaya railway line, built by Gazprom, stretches across the Yamal Peninsula.
Seaports
In October 2013, the port for year-round navigation, Sabetta, which was built on the Yamal Peninsula as part of the Yamal LNG project to ensure the export of liquefied natural gas from the South Tambey fields, took over the first cargo.
The port of Kharasavey also operates.
Factors hindering development
Harsh climate (cold long winters, cool short summers, strong winds)
Severe swampiness, especially on the southwestern and northeastern coasts
Permafrost is widespread
High humidification coefficient
Winter comes from October, but there is also winter in June
Poorly developed transport and other infrastructure
Climate
In Yamal, the subarctic climate is widespread, and in the north - the arctic climate. Average January temperatures range from -23 to -27 degrees Celsius, July - from +3 to +9. The amount of precipitation is low: about 400 mm / year. The thickness of the snow cover is 50 cm on average.
Hydrography
The annual runoff layer in the north of the peninsula is 150 mm, in the south - 300 mm. Rivers freeze by mid-October, open up in early June, many rivers and lakes freeze to the bottom by the end of winter. The type of feeding of rivers is snow. High water in June.
The peninsula has a large number of lakes, the largest of which is Yambuto (the Neito lake system), through which the Yamal portage passed in the Middle Ages.
The largest rivers of the peninsula:
Mordyyakha, Nerutayakha and Yumbidyakha (Yumbatayakha), Syadoryakha, Pyyakoyakha, Puhuchayakha, Tiuteyakha (Tiutei-Yakha), Kharasavey, Syoyakha (Mutnaya), Syyakha (Green), Yasoveyakha-ha-ha-Yuribeyaha Yaha, Pemakoda-Yaha. Yamal Peninsula 
Soils, flora and fauna
Yamal is located in the natural zone of the tundra, the southern part is in the forest-tundra. Permafrost is widespread; thawed soils are found only under large rivers and lakes.
Podburs, gley and peat soils prevail among the soils.
In the north of the peninsula, shrub-grass-lichen-moss arctic tundras grow, in the central part - shrub-moss northern tundra, in the south - dwarf moss-lichen, southern tundra.
The peninsula is home to many species of animals, including: reindeer, Arctic fox, lemming, white owl, partridge, Upland Buzzard, Sandpiper, Red-breasted Goose (is endemic), Eider, Long-tailed Duck, Snow Bunting, Rose Gull, Siberian Crane, etc. Among fish are found: whitefish, char, muksun, pike, burbot, lenok, grayling, Siberian sturgeon, perch, carp, etc.
spring - the Ob river opened 
OBSK LIP OF THE KARA SEA
Obskaya Bay is the largest bay of the Kara Sea, estuary of the Ob River, located between the Gydansky and Yamal peninsulas. In the eastern part of the bay, the Taz Bay branches off from it, into which the Taz River flows.
The length of the bay is more than 800 km, width is from 30 to 80 km, depth is up to 25 m, it is freed from ice, except for the southern part, in July and is covered with ice in October.
Settlements - Novy Port, Yamburg, Cape-Kamenny.
The soil in the bay is viscous, blue silt, while the coastal shallows and banks are sandy. The wave in the lip is very steep, short and irregular. The water in the lip is fresh and very cloudy. The banks of the bay are completely treeless, monotonous, steep on the western side, flatter or hilly on the eastern side. The soil on the banks is marshy; there is almost no discharge forest (fin) on the banks. The islands are found only at the mouths of rivers and rivers flowing into the bay. There are few bays and bays, only near Drovyanoy Cape there is a small, shallow bay of Preobrazheniya and near Cape Yamasol there is a small convenient bay named Nakhodka.
In addition to the Ob, several rivers flow into the Gulf of Ob. The rivers Nadym and Nyda flow into its southeastern part, forming an entire archipelago of islands at their confluence. On the western side, limited by the vast Yamal Peninsula, small rivers flow in most, of which some in the lower reaches are accessible for small river vessels, such as the Yada, Oya, Ivocha, Zelenaya, Syoyakha and others.
The lip is quite rich in fish, both river and marine species of fish are found in it: sturgeon, sterlet, nelma, burbot, herring, muksun, shchekur and others. Yamal Peninsula 
Research history
The acquaintance of Russians with the Gulf of Ob began in 1600; in 1601, the expedition from Berezovo to the mouth of the Taz River, led by the governor Savluk Pushkin and Prince Masalsky, was a success, and since then this route, until the destruction of the city of Mangazeya, annually made voyages from the mouths of the Ob along its lip and the Taz Bay to Mangazeya. Arkhangelsk residents, empty lake and Mezens also sailed through the Gulf of Ob to Mangazeya more than once; they went with goods, on light karbas, from the Kara Bay up the Mutnaya River to the lake from which it flows, then they unloaded the ships, dragged them empty through a small portage to the Zelenaya River, which flows from the west into the Ob Bay, loaded their ships again, sailed down the Zelenaya to its mouth, crossed the Ob Bay and went further along the Taz Bay to the mouth of the Taz River to the city of Mangazeya. In the same way they returned from Mangazeya for another year back. These voyages ceased with the destruction of Mangazeya.
In 1734, Lieutenant Ovtsyn, the head of that part of the large northern expedition, which was entrusted with exploring a part of the Siberian coast between the mouths of the Ob and Yenisei, on a dinghy boat, in early August, entered the bay, reaching 70 ° 4 "N. In 1736 he reached 72 ° 34 "n. sh., and in 1738, with the navigator Koshelev, passed, by August 8, the entire lip to the Kara Sea. In the same year, favorable for sailing in the northern seas, Lieutenants Malygin and Skuratov, following from the Kara Sea, entered the Ob Bay and the mouth of the Ob River. In 1738, Lieutenant Skuratov, fighting ice in the Gulf of Ob, walked it all the way to the mouth and entered the Kara Sea.
In 1828, the western coast of the bay, from Cape Drovyanoy to the mouth of the Ob, was bypassed by land and described by Bldg. fl. storm. Captain Ivanov and Lieutenant Berezhnykh. In 1863, an expedition outfitted by M.K.Sidorov, under the command of Kushelevsky, left Obdorsk on a sailing schooner to the Gulf of Ob and reached the mouth of the Taz River. In 1874, the English captain Joseph Wiggins, on the steamer "Diana", was at the mouth of the Ob Bay. In 1877 the steam schooner "Louise", the town of Trapeznikova, came from Europe to the mouth of the Ob and reached Tobolsk. In 1878, the Danish steamer "Neptune" sailed the entire Gulf of Ob to the mouth of the Nadym River, as did the English steamer "Warkworth" Wiggins, and both managed to return to Europe that same summer with a return load. In the same summer, the schooner "Siberia", built in Tyumen by the city of Trapeznikov, entered the Ob Bay from the Ob, passed it and arrived safely in London. In 1880 the same steamer "Neptune" made a safe voyage from Europe to the mouth of the Ob and back. In 1893, the northern part of the bay was crossed by one of the ships of the expedition of the Naval Ministry - the steamer "Lieutenant Malygin", under the command of Lieutenant Shvede. At the same time, for the first time, indications were received of the existence of a bay to the north of Cape Mate-Sale.
According to the research of the expedition of A.I. Vilkitsky, in 1895, this bay turned out to belong to a rather large low-lying island named after Vilkitsky. In 1895 and 1896, the expedition of Lieutenant Colonel Vilkitsky, sent by the Naval Ministry to inventory a part of the Kara Sea and the Ob and Yenisei Governorates, aboard the Lieutenant Ovtsyn steamer and the Lieutenant Skuratov sailing barge, sailed safely in the Ob Bay, wintered in the Ob and, having completed their commission, returned across the Kara Sea to Arkhangelsk in the fall of 1896.
It turned out that the Gulf of Ob is convenient for swimming; the entrance to the Ob River, the bar of which is shallow and covered by banks, has a fairway for vessels with a draft of 2.7 to 3.4 m; ice, in late summer, does not happen in the lip. The shooting of the eastern coast of the bay, made by Ovtsin, turned out to be incorrect; in places it lay on the maps 30, 40 and 50 miles or more to the east; the western bank, shot by Ivanov, was plotted much more accurately. Studies of the Vilkitsky expedition showed that in general the lip is not as wide as it seemed according to the maps that existed before.
Since 1897, a steamship communication between the Ob River and London was established through the Ob Bay, by the English company Layborn Poppam, which purchased up to 3.2 thousand tons of grain in the Barnaul District and hired steamers to deliver this cargo to the Nakhodka Bay and to transport goods from there, which will be brought by sea from England, to Tyumen and Tomsk.
orthodox mission 
BAIDARATSKY LIP
Baydaratskaya Bay is one of the largest bays of the Kara Sea, in its southwestern part, between the Yugorsky Peninsula and the Yamal Peninsula.
The length of the lip is about 180 km. The width at the entrance is 78 km. Depth up to 20 m.
The surface water temperature in summer is 5-6 ° C. From October to June it is almost completely covered with ice. Ice movements in the central part of the bay can only occur with strong winds and tides (the amplitude of the latter is 0.5-1.0 m). Storms in the open part of the Kara Sea can raise a wave in the Baydaratskaya Bay and break the ice in its northern and central parts. The boundary of the stable standing of ice changes annually.
Yamal - the country of a thousand lakes 
The coast is mostly flat, covered with tundra vegetation, and in some places it is very swampy. About 70 rivers flow into the bay. The largest of them (from the southwest to the northwest): Siberiachayakha, Kara, Labiyakha, Pakucheyakha, Ngoyakha, Ngosaveyakha, Talvtayakha, Tungomayakh, Ngyndermayakha, Nenzoyakha, Baydarat, Yorkutayakha, Yavkhalyakhayakhayakha, Tambeyakha Toyase, Yumbyakha, Lyyaha, Yuryoyakha, Lykhiyakha, Sedataha, Khahayakha, Marayakha and Yabtoyakha.
There are five islands in the water area of \u200b\u200bthe Baydaratskaya Bay: Litke, Ngonyartso, Polmesyats, Levdiev, Torasavey. They are all uninhabited.
The water area and coast of the bay belong to the territory of three administrative entities: the Yamal and Priuralsky districts of the Yamal-Nenets Autonomous Okrug and the Zapolyarny District of the Nenets Autonomous Okrug.
Most of the bay's coastline is uninhabited. The only settlements are Ust-Kara, Ust-Yuribey, Yary and Morrasale. Near the southeastern and eastern ends of the bay, at a distance of 20 to 90 km, first a railway (to the Khralov terminal station) passes, and then a permanent road winter road.
Underwater gas pipelines have been laid along the bottom of the Baydaratskaya Bay, which will connect the largest gas fields in Yamal, primarily Bovanenkovskoye, Kharasaveyskoye and Yuzhno-Tambeyskoye, with the European part of Russia. Five branches will run from the Baydaratskaya compressor station (CS) to the Yarynskaya compressor station through the central part of the bay; another branch will go much to the north, at the exit from the bay between the Bovanenkovskoye field itself and the Ust-Kara compressor station near the village of the same name.
midnight on a polar day in Yamal 
BORIS ZHITKOV - JOURNEY TO YAMAL
But back to the wonderful publication about the trip to Yamal. According to Zhitkov, the expedition went to the North at the end of the winter of 1908. In addition to the scientist, it included the captain of the sapper battalion V. Vvedensky (as a topographer and assistant) and the representative of the Moscow Agricultural Institute D. Filatov (engaged in the collection of zoological and botanical collections).
A priest - Father Martinian, an interpreter and five foreigners - was also dispatched to help the researchers, one of whom took the whole family with him - with a plague and deer.
The most valuable frame was the interpreter Kudrin. He had extensive acquaintance with Aboriginal people, was responsible and executive. And everyone fell in love with the translator for his cheerful disposition.
The starting point of the expedition was Obdorsk (now Salekhard). According to Boris Zhitkov, a herd of 480 reindeer was collected for the trip. Such a substantial number was necessary for the delivery of a large amount of supplies to the tundra, as well as for the return on a difficult summer journey.
On March 29, 1908, a caravan of half a thousand deer, 12 people, with two tents, two tents, three boats and 70 sledges loaded with different supplies, set out from Obdorsk on a journey that took seven long months ...
tundra - New Port
Between rivers and lakes
At first, the expedition went well. Travelers traveled a mile by a mile, diaries made notes about the next passed point - a river or a lake. But in mid-April, near the Gulf of Ob, northern nature showed its tough temper - a terrible snow storm locked the researchers in the plagues for six days.
On April 18, work began to boil again. They took off the camp, sent food supplies forward through the Samoyed camps. And they prudently organized two warehouses in the tundra - later they were very useful on the way back.
At the end of April, the travelers faced another test. They got lost a little and with difficulty figured out "the ratio of rivers and lakes."
“The Samoyeds who stood near the lakes, in response to questions, either responded with complete ignorance, or gave very evasive and incorrect testimony,” Zhitkov recalled.
In early May, the expedition members split up. Captain Vvedensky began to photograph rivers and lakes from the Ob Bay to the Kara Sea. Assistant Filatov stayed behind to look after the caravan, simultaneously busy with replenishing the collections - spring has come to the North too.
Hungry deer and beaver jets
And Boris Mikhailovich, the leader of the expedition, accompanied by an interpreter went even further - to the Kara Sea itself ...
The travelers did not stay long on the shore. They reached Bely Island on hummock ice on reindeer sleds. Here difficulties arose - the deer were very tired and hungry, and there was no reindeer on the island. In addition, the Samoyed guides traveled reluctantly - the island was considered sacred, on its southern territory there were two sacrificial sites.
- We were brought, however, to these shaitans. Before leaving the tents for the White sledges, deer and people were fumigated with a beaver stream, writes Zhitkov.
(For reference: beaver jet is an aromatic substance of animal origin, which is produced by beavers in special wen pouches).
The reunion of the expedition took place in mid-June. The northern spring was already in full swing, the snow disappeared from the flat tundra and lay only in the ravines, the lakes were still partly covered with ice.
But the difficulties continued. Large areas were flooded with water, it was necessary to constantly vary the direction of the caravan's movement. It was decided to lighten the wagon train as much as possible - some of the guides with tents and a hundred deer had to be left behind. The rest of the participants of the trip with tents and boats continued their way across the peninsula.
This amazing Yamal
Boris Zhitkov in his report talks about what he saw on Yamal. In his opinion, the most interesting are the hydrographic conditions on the peninsula. Yamal is rich in both large lakes and many small ones. Many of them do not freeze in winter and are full of fish. The system of rivers is also of undoubted interest.
Zhitkov noted the amazing ability of the Samoyeds to orient themselves on the terrain: “Accustomed to the vastness of the plains, nomads are unusually confident in orienting themselves even in a completely smooth tundra, they schematize their spatial knowledge well, always being able to draw a plan of the terrain on the snow or on the sand, and quickly orient themselves in the geographical map proposed by them. ".
The fauna of Yamal, as stated by the scientist, is "typical tundra." Of the species associated with the sea, "the polar bear is common on the northern shores." A rather rare walrus is also found here. Samoyeds beat bearded seals and seals. The wolf, arctic fox, wolverine and ermine inhabit the entire peninsula, while the fox and hare live in the southern part. Travelers came across a hoofed mouse and an Ob lemming.
Among the birds, the expedition noticed swans, geese, eiders, red goose, gulls, sandpipers, plovers, peregrine falcons, white-tailed eagles, white and short-eared owls, partridges, larks, wagtails and many others.
Boris Mikhailovich attributed the abundance of winds and temperature differences to the peculiarities of the climate. In spring, storms are distinguished by their duration and strength. The travelers had to face the last big storm at the end of May.
Researchers saw the aurora borealis many times in March. And in early April, with severe frosts and high cirrus clouds, they were lucky to contemplate "very spectacular light phenomena" - in the form of "false suns and circles around the sun and moon."
Of great interest, as Zhitkov writes, are the life and living conditions of the local population - stone Samoyeds. The scientist estimates their number as follows: "in ten genera up to 700 yasak souls and up to 2000 cash souls." On the peninsula, the Samoyeds own 100 thousand deer, which speaks of the local residents as well-to-do people.
Their lifestyle is mostly nomadic. At the beginning of winter, they move south to the border of the forests and are in Obdorsk at fairs. In February-March, the return migration to summer pastures begins. Some families stay on the Kara coast for the winter to hunt for bears. In summer, seals are beaten by the Kara Sea.
Concluding his story, Boris Zhitkov drew attention to the "cordial assistance rendered to the expedition by local people."
MYSTERIOUS HOLE IN YAMAL
Scientists are investigating a giant hole in the ground that appeared in Yamal. A crater with a diameter of 60 (and according to other sources - up to 80) meters was discovered last week (July 2014) - it was accidentally noticed from a helicopter. All sorts of versions of its origin have already appeared on the Internet. Scientists have to find out whether it is the result of a man-made impact or the fall of a space body.
Some media outlets even suggested that the funnel appeared as a result of alien intervention. But to accurately determine the cause of its appearance, you need to take soil samples. As reported by "Russia 24", this is still impossible, since the edges of the funnel are constantly crumbling, and it is dangerous to approach it. The first expedition has already visited the site, and Marina Leibman, Chief Researcher of the Earth Cryosphere Institute of the Siberian Branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences, spoke about what the scientists saw there.
“There are simply no traces of a person with any equipment here,” she said. “One can assume something fantastic: a hot meteorite fell and everything melted here. But when a meteorite falls, there are traces of charring, that is, high temperature. there are no signs of high temperatures. There are traces of water flows, there is some accumulation of water. "
According to the portal "Rossiyskaya Gazeta", scientists are considering several versions of the formation of this hole. The version that this is an ordinary karst sinkhole is unlikely, because the sinkhole is surrounded by soil discharges. If a meteorite formed a gap in the ground, then such a powerful blow could not go unnoticed.
Anna Kurchatova, Executive Director of the Subarctic Research and Training Range, Candidate of Geological and Mineralogical Sciences, suggested that a not very strong underground explosion took place here. Probably, gas accumulated underground, and pressure began to build up at a depth of about 15 meters. As a result, the gas-water mixture burst out, throwing out ice and sand, like a cork from a champagne bottle. Fortunately, this happened far from a pipeline or gas production and processing facility.
Reindeer breeders of the Tazovsky district of the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug discovered a second crater, which outwardly resembles the "bottomless pit" that has recently become known, 30 kilometers from the Bovanenkovskoye deposit.
The new funnel is located on another peninsula - Gydansky, not far from the coast of the Taz Bay. The diameter of the crater is much smaller than that of the first one - about 15 meters. The other day, the deputy director of the state farm Mikhail Lapsuy was convinced of its existence.
However, there is no need to talk about the discovery as such. According to nomads, the crater appeared at the end of September last year. They just didn’t publicize this fact. And when they heard about a similar phenomenon on the neighboring peninsula, they told the local authorities about it.
"Hole" in Yamal could appear due to swamp gas
Mikhail Lapsuy confirms the identity of the Gydan and Yamal natural formations. By the way, they differ little in their distance from the Arctic Circle. Outwardly, except for the size, everything is very similar.
Judging by the soil bordering the upper boundaries, it was ejected to the surface from the depth of permafrost. True, those reindeer herders who call themselves witnesses of the phenomenon claim: at first there was a haze over the area where the ejection occurred, then a flash of fire followed and the earth shuddered.
At first glance, this is speculation. However, such a version of the release should not be dismissed outright, says Anna Kurchatova, the executive director of the Subarctic scientific and educational site, candidate of geological and mineralogical sciences, since an explosive mixture is formed when methane is mixed with air in certain proportions.
GODS OF YAMAL
Gods of Yamal
Just like other peoples, the religion of the indigenous people of the North determines the foundations of the worldview, morality, forms and directions of creativity.
The source for acquaintance with the religion of the Northerners can be the Jarobians, the Syudbabs of the storytellers and the stories of old people who have preserved the ancient religious and magical beliefs in the greatest purity. Thus, the rich and numerous legends about the relationship between gods and heroes have created a rich arsenal of mythological images.
People (nuv khasova) also live in heaven, possessing deer. When the snow melts in the lower sky, it flows down in the form of rain to the ground. The stars are lakes on the earth that serves as the firmament for us.
The land is flat, slightly humped in the middle, where there are mountains, from which rivers flow in different directions, including the Ob. The land is surrounded by the sea. There are seven more lands under our land. On the first of them live sirtya (sikhitrya), for them our earth serves as the sky, the sun and the moon are the same for all worlds, they shine for sirta through the water and our earth.
The sun, according to the old ideas of the Nenets, is a woman. She grows herbs, trees, moss. When frosts come, the sun hides from them - it turns with the firmament and night falls (polar night). The moon is perceived as flat and round. The dark spots on the moon are the legs of the Iriy Khasava (lunar man), the torso and head, which are on the other side of the moon.
The religious ideas of the Nenets are based on animistic ideas, i.e. belief in spirits. The whole world around them seemed to them inhabited by spirits who took a direct part in the lives of people, bringing them good luck or failure in their trades, bringing joy and grief, sending various diseases and the like.
All travelers and explorers of the 18th and early 20th centuries. argued that the Nenets had an idea of \u200b\u200bthe "supreme being", which is called Num. This Num being incorporeal, having no image, was, according to the reports of researchers, the creator of the earth and everything that exists on it. The most widespread myth about the universe among the Nenets narrated that at first there was only water. Num sent a loon. She dived and brought a lump of clay. The lump began to grow and turned into earth. Then all the mountains and rivers, people and animals were created. The word Num in the Nenets language means weather. Obviously, the supreme being is in reality the spirit of the sky, the luminous principle.
In this world, the body becomes "earthen" and turns into a black shiny beetle si. The black si beetle, the pui beetle larva and the long challah earthworm are considered the messengers of the Nga country. They are deceptively small when they creep out on a summer day. At night and in winter, they are able to appear as huge monsters, all of them are the embodiment of the god Nga.
The horrors of the Nga world are usually told by shamans, as they have to stir up the Dungeon. Every night a person is overcome by messengers of the Nga, who climb into the chum and sleeping bodies. When a person falls asleep, Nga invisibly flies into his mouth and the person falls ill. Nga hunts people just as people catch animals, fish and birds. The flesh of a sick or dying person is gnawed by the challah death worm. Only a shaman can see the worm that Nga sends, and having made an incision in the sore spot with a knife, he will remove it. Nga is sometimes referred to as Si iw Nga Nisya - the Father of the Seven Deaths. That is, various diseases are fatal both for people and for animals - the Nenets seem to be his children. So the children of Nga are considered Yakdaing (Scabies), Meryung (Smallpox), Hodeng (Cough-tuberculosis), Sing (Tsing), Hedung (A disease that kills all people and deer in one night), etc.
The Nenets consider Nga also a participant in the Creation of everything that exists on earth. Only Num created everything that was bright, clean, reasonable and useful for people, and the god Nga - on the contrary, everything that was evil, unclean and harmful.
In every creature created on earth, something is guessed from Num and something from Nga, but it was more difficult than others to whom the co-creators paid special attention to - man and dog, or rather only man, because neither Num nor Nga had originally created a dog. She "originated" from man. There are several Nenets parables on this score. The version of one of the parables sounds like this: “Created by Num, at one time a man and a dog lived separately. The dog had clothes, as well as a cargo sled where food was stored. One day the dog took and ate everything in one day, not caring about the future. Then Num got angry and said: "You do not know how to live independently at all, go to a person and live with him." Then Num made it so that the dog stopped speaking humanly. "
According to Nenets legends, it is through the fault of a forgetful dog that a person falls into the power of Nga for a time, which is enough to be eaten, spattered or showered with ashes (that is, Nga managed to perform his ritual). And then the person became mortal (susceptible to "diseases"), ie. belongs equally to the Upper and Lower Worlds.
The dog now has to fulfill a special mission.
The world of the Underworld is great, and its messengers are able to penetrate (as a rule, at night), into the world of people, and in a variety of guises: a pack of wolves, deadly diseases, destructive elements. And here in the plague they are confronted by a dog guarding the "hole" that serves as a transition between the Lower and the human world.
When one of Nga's daughters comes to the camp - the disease of Sing (Tsing), a dog is sacrificed to her. The dog is also considered to be a helper of man, a good shepherd, able to independently collect and drive a herd of deer to the camp.
Therefore, the dog is not a gloomy image. She just got quite a canine fate - to guard the "hole".
So, Num and Nga are two powerful forces waging war among themselves.
There is a legend according to which, once Nga complained to Num that in the dark underground, in search of a way out, he often stumbles upon the sharp corners of the seven layers of permafrost. Num, not wanting to spoil his relationship with Nga, with whom he, according to legend, was in kinship, gave in to the moon and the sun. Darkness fell on the ground. People, animals and birds could use only the meager light of the celestial stars, bumping into trees in the dark, falling into holes. People began to sacrifice in holy places, begging Num to return the light to the people.
At the hint of one of the gods, the heavenly lord Num managed to cunningly return the Sun from the dungeon and the day came. Since then, Numa and Nga have been fighting for the possession of the light.
The dispute about "Who is the first" Num or his eternal rival Nga, takes place in mythology from Creation to re-creation, covering every year, day, person, thing. This dispute also causes a collision, in which the earth perishes (overflowing with "diseases"), the Sun hides (in the dungeon of Nga), a person is born and dies.
The sequence of days changes, and the human age gradually flows from east to west. In the east is the abode of Numa, from where the souls of people come, in the west - the country of Nga, where they leave the human body and leave.
The image of Numa is also associated with the Southern Sky, often opposed to the sky of the North, the ruler of which is the powerful god Ngerm. And if the revival of nature is associated with the image of Num, then with Ngerm its solidification, i.e. the onset of winter. In the cycle of nature, Ngerm plays the same role as Nga in the circle of human life and death.
In the host of Nenets spirits, there is only one, with which Num himself is unable to cope. His name is Hebidya Ho Erv (Master of the Sacred Birch).
He lives in the hollow of a seven-trunk birch. Every two thousand he lifts his birch, and from under its roots the water of the great flood spreads over the earth. Hebidya Ho Erv washes the land with "big water", where too many diseases have spread. The flood lasts seven days. At this time, the Sun does not shine, people and animals perish. Then they reappear and live again for two thousand years.
No less popular Nenets god is Yavmal (Yavmal Iriko) - the Sources of the Old Man Rivers, the Waters of the Grandfather Territory, the Sea of \u200b\u200bthe Spirit Territory. In many legends, he is presented as the heir to Num. According to one of the legends, Num makes the hero the god of the middle earth, orders him to "sit on the upper Ob" all his life, gives him a winged horse and names him Yavmal. In the power of Yavmal, as the god of the Upper (Warm) Sea (meaning the Ob River), there are both living spring waters and destructive floods. His will predetermines the coming to Earth of both kind warmth and terrible heat. This is connected with sacrifices dedicated to Yavmal during the flood season, as well as in the season when "the reindeer are hot." In those years when the "great heat" comes to the tundra, the Nenets beat the water with sabers and exhort Yavmal to ease the heat, after which "it becomes cold overnight."
Yavmal, who is also the keeper of the well-being of all people living "on the great water" (the Ob River), was often asked for assistance in the marine industry.
Usually sacrifices to Yavmal were performed in spring and summer. But neither water itself nor heat is the element of Yavmal. He is only a mediator between the Earth and Heaven.
The master of all waters is Id Erv (Lord of the Waters). He is connected with people by a respectful recognition of mutual importance, flavored by a series of gifts - gifts. A person makes a sacrifice - the Lord of the waters, bestows a safe crossing; the sea gives abundant prey - the hunter responds with a counter ritual of thanksgiving.
So, going out to sea hunting was preceded by a sacrifice. A deer was slaughtered at the sanctuary. A handful of the victim's blood pours into the sea; it is also used to smear the faces of idols, the bow and steering wheel of the boat. If someone happens to be carried away by a storm wind into the open sea, then they give the sea the most valuable (usually it was a weapon) and, with a happy outcome, they rush to sacrifice a deer.
A rare Nenets god does not roam. However, there is one among them who does it the way people should do it after him. This is Ilibembertya. This name combines two concepts - Ilebts (life, well-being, economy, wild deer) and Perts (to do, hold, call). The main primary concern of Ilibembert was the protection of wild deer. But with the development of reindeer husbandry among the Nenets, his concern also extended to domestic reindeer. Therefore, Ilibembert is called the Keeper of the Deer. According to Nenets legends, he travels around the whole earth, gives people deer. The Nenets also consider him the first reindeer breeder.
As a bright spirit in the religion of the Nenets, a prominent place was occupied by YaNebya (Mother Earth) or YaMyunya (Bosom of the Earth), which, according to some legends, is the wife of Numa. She was considered not only the patroness of women (she often helped with childbirth), but also was some kind of part in each of them.
No less revered god among the Nenets is the Master of the White Island Serngo Iriko (Old Man of the Ice Island). In Yamal, he is considered the main spirit.
Of course, these are not all the gods of the Nenets pantheon. Their number is much larger and more varied. But acquaintance with these, the most popular Nenets gods, allows us to understand how many phenomena were explained in their own way, in a peculiar way: the change of night and day, winter and summer, the human age.
So INebya or YaMunya (i.e. the Earth) is surrounded by the spirits of the South (Num) and the North (Ngerm), the East (Ilibembertya) and the West (Nga) fighting for it. And since the Ngerm and Nga posed the greatest danger to humans, the northern and western shores of Yamal are fenced in by numerous sanctuaries.
The edge of life, the "Edge of the Earth" (lit. Yamal) was the name of the northernmost part of the peninsula. The sanctuaries of the main guardian spirits were located on the northern “Sacred Cape” of Yamal (Khakhensal) and White Island. It was there that ritual sacrifices were performed. The sanctuary of Yamal is not (the goddess of Yamal) on Khakhensal resembles a camp and a fortress. Five pointed heaps of horns and poles look like plagues standing in a row. At the same time, all the "camp", each "chum" is surrounded by sculptures of wooden idols. The image of Yamal Khadoka (Old Woman), a wooden sculpture in the form of a reclining woman, surrounded by three syadais (idols) is located at the edge of the coast. The face of the goddess is turned south towards the land inhabited by people.
On the White Island, opposite Hakhensale, there is the temple of Sero Iriko (White Old Man), the main protector of the goddess Yamalne. He stands surrounded by wooden idols (syadais) on the southern coast of the island, facing Yamal. The White Old Man (Serngo Irika) is the first to take on the blows of Ngerma (God of the North) and weakens their impact on people.
As a rule, the Nenets rarely turned to Num - only on the most important occasions, happy or unhappy. In the oral tradition of the Nenets, there are two places associated with Numa. These are Vaigach Island and Numto Lake.
According to legend, Vaygach was once even. Then "a cliff appeared on the seashore, which grew more and more and, finally, formed like a man." Since then, Vaygach was called Hegeya (Holy Land) or Hegeo (Holy Island).
A seven-faced three-sided wooden idol standing on a cliff-man bore the name of Vesako (Old Man). In the middle of the island is a stone called Nevehege (Mother of the Gods) or Khadako (Old Woman). All the Nenets gods were considered their children, including four sons, "who dispersed to different places in the tundra."
Nuhege (Son of God) is a small cliff on Vaigach, Miniseigora - in the Polar Urals; Yav'mal - the Yamal Peninsula; StoneHege, Kozmin forest - in the Kaninskaya tundra.
In his work "The Yamal Peninsula" Boris Zhitkov gives a description of the sacred place: “This is a long row of heaps of sitayis, overlaid with the skulls of sacrificial deer, tied with scraps of skins ... ... Wooden idols here ... in the form of short stumps of a tree trunk with a chipped head at the top and rough notches in the place of eyes, nose, mouth; or in the form of long and thin hewn sticks covered with groups of notches of seven in each group ... In the middle of each heap, as is usually the case in other sacrificial places in Yamal, is inserted a dry larch - the sacred Samoyed tree. Each pile of seadeis is considered a place of worship for separate rows. "
Myad`khekhe - house spirits acted as the guardian of the dwelling and property. Usually they were kept in the front corner of the chum si (i.e. opposite the entrance) along with images of YMenu, sculptures of spirits, nature, sacred objects from various sanctuaries, taken in exchange for an offering.
When families moved or migrated, all these cult items were transported in special sacred sledges - hekhekhan. These are special sledges, where a chest or a box with lids was placed, where idols were located.
Among the Nenets household spirits especially revered, myadpukhutsya is the patroness of the family (literally the old woman or the mistress of the plague). The Nenets say: "Without myadpukhuts, a house is not a home." She protects him. Previously, myadpukhutsya was in every chum, and was in the female half, usually on the pillow of the older woman or in the bag over her head. There were a lot of clothes on myadpukhats. Every time a family member recovered after a difficult birth or after an illness, new clothes were sewn in gratitude to her. They also resorted to the help of myadpukhuts in the case of a serious illness, for which they put her at the head of the patient. To find out about the outcome of the disease, they took myadpukhuts in their arms and weighed it: if it seemed light, then the patient should recover if the seriously ill patient dies.
To facilitate childbirth, they also turned to yanebe (or yamin - mother earth).
Yanebya was considered the patroness of the female half of the family. During childbirth, the woman in labor held Yaneby on her stomach with both hands, squeezing her in pain and asking for relief. It is characteristic that Yanebya did not have a wooden or stone body and head. Instead of the latter, pieces of cloth were put into clothes. If the birth ended well, the patroness of women was presented with a new fur coat, a copper ring, a sash, etc. (reindeer were never sacrificed to Yaneby), and then they were planted for three days in a newborn's cradle, after which they were placed in a chest and placed until the next need in the "clean" part of the chum opposite the entrance.
To compile the most complete picture of the domestic spirits of the Nenets, it is necessary to focus on the images associated with the cult of the dead, the so-called ngytarma and sidryang. According to some reports, ngytarma is an image of an ancestor (man or woman) who died long ago and at an advanced age.
A wooden figure was made from a flake taken from the coffin of the deceased, and then dressed in a "malitsa" or "yagushka", sometimes fed. Wealthy reindeer herders sometimes killed a reindeer as a sacrifice to the ngytarma. Ngytarma is made 710 years after death and kept in the plague for several generations. Ngytyrma can be placed both on a woman's bed and outside the chum, on a small card, standing on top of the hekhekhan (sacred nart).
In Yamal, ngytyrma is taken out into the street during a blizzard to guard the deer. The Nenets say that he is an intermediary between the tundra sadyai and household spirits, and protects the approaches to the house from evil spirits.
After death, the Nenets of Khanty origin made an image of the deceased, called sidryang. It was made of aspen, pasted over with birch bark and dressed in clothes. They kept him on a sleeping place, while eating, they seated him at the table and fed him constantly, and put a knife, a snuff-box, etc. in front of him. Rich reindeer herders slaughtered a deer for sidryang every month on a full moon, and the poor made a bloodless sacrifice.
Three years later, he was buried in a special box, separate from the deceased, in whose honor it was made, but near the coffin of the latter.
In addition to offering sacrifices to spirits, there was also a way to communicate with them through shamans. Shamans were, as it were, intermediaries between people and spirits. "Shaman" is a Tungus word. Among the Nenets people, a person endowed with a special spiritual gift was called tadebya. The shamanic gift was inherited, as a rule, through the male line from father to son. A woman became a shaman only in the event of a shortage of male heirs. However, in order to become a shaman, it was not enough to have shamans among the ancestors. Only one who is chosen by the spirits can become a shaman. There are numerous pieces of evidence left by many researchers about this. The election took place as follows: “They (spirits) appear to him (the future shaman) in various forms, both in sleep and in reality, torment his soul with various worries and fears, especially in secluded places, and do not lag behind him until then, until he, seeing no more means to go against the will of the deity, does not finally realize his calling and does not dare to follow it. " Thus, they became shamans not of their own free will, but under strong pressure from the spirits, and the shamanic title was accepted not with joy, but as a heavy burden.
The first signs of special recognition were found already at birth: on the crown of the baby's head there was a film, which, according to the Nenets, was a symbol of the skin of a tambourine. A birthmark was also a special feature of the shaman.
When such a child, marked with a special sign, grew up, he seemed to begin to notice things that were inaccessible to the eyes of other people. During puberty, he fell into the so-called shamanic disease: he either began to sing, then he slept all day, then he walked around without noticing anyone.
It was believed that spirits came to him - helpers of the shaman's ancestor and forced him to shamanic activities, tortured him. Only a certain category of shaman could help.
If a shaman found out that a suffering young man should become a shaman of the same category as himself, he would say: "I can teach him." If he drew the conclusion that the spirits that were overpowering the young Nenets did not belong to his world, that he would be a shaman of a different category, he would say: “I cannot teach. Go to such and such. "
Thus, the chosen one could get rid of mental suffering and undergo initiation into shamans only with the guidance of an adult tadeby.
The apprenticeship lasted for several years. In order to become a real tadeby, it was necessary to go through the path of knowledge and tests lasting two decades.
In the beginning, the young shaman was kamlal (that is, he addressed the spirits), using only a belt and garters from pims, which he used to bandage a sore spot in patients. Seven years later, the shaman-teacher indicated to the student where to cut down the larch for the side of the tambourine. If the novice shaman was able, he made a tambourine without pendants himself, if not, he asked another person. Then the beater was made. The first tambourine served the shaman for several years.
salekhard town - Obdorsky ostrog 
RIDDLES OF YAMAL - PANTUEV GORODO
Trade has always played one of the main roles in the development of any state. The history of the development of the Russian state was no exception. Russia was linked by trade relations with both European and Asian countries. But few people know that the same relationship existed with Siberia almost from the beginning of the existence of Russia. The first mention of ties with Siberian, and, most interestingly, northern peoples is found in the very first written source that has come down to us - the well-known monastic chronicle "The Tale of Bygone Years", which tells how Novgorod merchants-travelers exchanged metal products for " soft junk, ”that is, furs. As you know, the first stage of the development of Western and Eastern Siberia went along the northern route, Russian industrialists, Cossacks and merchants came to Siberia by land through the polar Urals and on small ships (kochas) through portages along the rivers on the Yamal Peninsula. Siberian furs - an expensive and light commodity - more than paid off for these long and dangerous journeys. And even at the beginning of the 16th century, the Pomors had already firmly mastered the sea and land-river routes at the mouth of the Ob and further on the Pura and Taz. And the Russian Tsar Vasily III included the title of Prince of Yugorsky in his numerous titles of the Grand Duke of the Russian land. The official Russian development of the south of Siberia dates back to the first campaign of the Cossack squad of Ataman Yermak Timofeevich in 1582. Until that time, the Siberian land was under the full authority of the descendants of the Mongol-Tatars.
The history of the northern development of Siberia has been little studied for a number of reasons, but in terms of its economic significance this great northern trade route, paved by Russian industrialists and Cossacks, is quite comparable to the Great Silk Road. Only they carried along it not silk and spices, but "soft junk" (furs), mammoth and walrus bones and other countless riches of Siberia. And the history of the discovery and development of the north of Siberia for the development of civilization is no less significant than travel to distant eastern countries.
The similarity of the development of all territories in those years was in one thing - after a certain distance, fortress towns were built in convenient places, and, having settled these lands, the pioneers moved on. There were such fortified towns on the northern rivers: Ob, Nadym, Pur, Taz. Their heyday is associated with the development of the fur trade at the beginning of the 17th century. We will not go into detail about Mangazeya. Many scientific articles have been written about this polar city. There were other fortresses on the banks of the northern rivers. These are the well-known Berezovsky and Obdorsky towns on the Ob, the Nadym town at the confluence of the Tanlava River with the Nadym River and the Nadym settlement in the lower reaches of the Nadym River, and there were several towns on the Taz River at once. Among them, historians identify three of the most significant: Verkhne-Tazovsky in the area of \u200b\u200bthe present village of Kikkiakki (founded in 1627), Khudoseisky in the region of the Khudosey River, it was also called Turukhansky (laid in 1607), Ledenkin ball between Mangazeya and the mouth of the Taz river, in the mouth of the Russian River (founded in 1620).
In confirmation of the version of the existence of small towns - a kind of satellites of such large settlements as Obdorsky town or Mangazeya, says a simple count of sable skins exported to tsarist Russia. In the "fruitful" years, tens of thousands of them were exported. An idea of \u200b\u200bthe number of sables that passed through Mangazeya in the years of prosperity is given by the surviving books of the tithe collection (every tenth sable was collected from a private fishery into the treasury). Calculations show that in 1624 68,120 sables were delivered to Mangazeya from the fishery, in 1625 - 81,230, in 1628 - 103,330, in 1630 - 80,000. animals, whose skins in a certain ratio were equated to the skin of a sable. One must think that in the previous years, the scope of production of "soft gold" was no less. Knowledge of the habitat of the fur-bearing animal allows us to say with full confidence that there were on the rivers Nadym, Pur and Taz, and other towns, so far unknown to researchers. For the production of such a huge number of fur-bearing animals, even for our time (and the sable, as you know, is not a gregarious animal), it was necessary to master huge territories. Historical documents more than convincingly prove that the tribute collected from the indigenous inhabitants was only a small part of the sable skins received by the royal treasury. Most of it was mined by alien industrialists. Fortified towns were built to help them.
But few people know that there was a "Mangazeya" and on Pura - it was Pantuev town. Most researchers call the left bank of the Pura the place of its possible location, approximately in the middle between the village of Urengoy and the village of Samburg, which exist in our time, practically at the latitude of the Arctic Circle.
Pantuev town is one of the pages lost in time for the development of the northern endless expanses. As already mentioned, industrialists entered Mangazeya mainly in two ways. The Mangazeya sea passage went along the coast of the Arctic Ocean to the western coast of the Yamal Peninsula and further through the watershed lakes Neito and Yambu to the Taz Bay. In early spring and favorable ice conditions, the Pomors also used a straight sea road, skirting the Yamal Peninsula from the north. The second route was by land through Berezovsky and Obdorsky towns and further by water through the Ob and Taz Bay. But there was also a third way, many researchers call it river or Kazimo-Nadym-Purovsky. Mostly Cossacks and merchants from the Komi-Zyryans traveled along it to Mangazeya. It passed from Berezovsky town up the Kazym River, then along a short portage to the Nadym River, then along its right tributary Tanlava and again along a short portage to the left tributary of the Pur River - Bolshaya Yamsovei. Due to the fact that on the Nadym and Pur rivers, the spring ice drift takes place almost a month earlier than the Ob and Taz lips are cleared of ice, this route, although it passed along two portages, made it possible in late spring to get to Mangazeya or leave it ... The emergence at the beginning of the 17th century of the Nadym town in the middle reaches of the Nadym River and the Pantuev town on the Pur River is connected with this path. The latter, using its extremely advantageous geographical position, could exist both as a transit satellite town of Mangazeya and as a yasak winter hut.
Why was the named place practically at the latitude of the Arctic Circle chosen by the builders of the Pantuev town? Taking into account the fact that our ancestors approached the choice of the place of their dwelling more than seriously, there must be good reasons for choosing the named place for the construction of an ancient settlement. And they are.
Firstly, this territory is located on the border of the northern taiga. Building to the north in the tundra open to all winds, far from the forest, means dooming yourself to solving problems with the delivery of not only timber, but also with the procurement of firewood - the only fuel available in those years.
Secondly, this place is supported by the fact that this territory is as if "no man's": the forest Nenets live to the south, and the tundra ones to the north. And in terms of safety from the raids of local tribes (and there are many such examples of military clashes with local princelings in history), this place is more than convenient.
Thirdly, historically formed ancient ways of exchange of goods of forest and tundra Nenets, Selkups and Enets passed through this place. Representatives of the latter of the named Samoyed peoples in those years inhabited the lower and middle reaches of the Taz River. Many ethnographers are inclined to believe that the Enets also lived in the middle reaches of the Pur River, but were later assimilated by the tundra Nenets. In confirmation of what has been said, it may be that the name of several Nenets clans does not have a literal translation from the tundra dialect of the Nenets language. Perhaps in ancient times, these were the Enets clans? Subsequently, the Enets living in the lower reaches of the Taz River, under pressure from the more militant Selkups, moved to the north.
Fourthly, the named place was convenient for the construction of an ancient town also because similar towns were built (again in terms of security) only on high hills or hills. And in this place there are many such hills - this is reflected in the name of several rivers flowing in these places at once, for example, Khoyakha - a mountain river, Malkhoyakha - a small mountain river, Sangeyakha - a river with steep banks (a river flowing between the hills).
The origin of the name of the ancient town on Pura is interesting - Pantuev gorodok (in some sources Pantuev gorodok). Most researchers agree that this name should not be associated with the preparation of deer antlers - antlers. The knowledge of the anatomy of the reindeer by the Nenets is simply amazing, each bone of this animal has its own name. And for medicinal purposes, the indigenous northerners used deer antlers, but their mass procurement for sale appeared much later. Most likely, the town got its name from the Slavic word "antler" - that is, desperate and even proud. However, one more version has a right to exist. The mention of the Siberian Cossack clan of the Pantuevs is found in many historical documents. And since the Cossacks made up the majority of the first settlers in the northern lands, it is quite possible that this first settlement on Puru was founded by Siberian Cossacks.
The question quite legitimately arises, why the mention of this town did not remain in the legends of the indigenous inhabitants? An explanation may be that the Urengoy dialect of the Forest Nenets, who lived closest to the named place, was lost before the researchers were lucky enough to write down the ancient legends. And if the Enets lived in these places, then, having undergone forced assimilation and resettlement to the whiter northern lands, they took with them the legends about the ancient city. Unfortunately, today almost all Enets speak the tundra dialect of the Nenets language.
A peculiar confusion in the search for this town is also caused by the fact that in the lower reaches of the Ob River there was a town of the same name. But in history nothing disappears and nothing disappears without a trace. There is one more indirect proof of the existence of the ancient city on Pura. As you know, the Samoyed tribes came to the northern lands from the Sayano-Altai highlands and therefore all geographical names (like the names of many northern animals) are descriptive or characterizing, for example, White Mountain or Shchuchya River. One of the streams flowing in the immediate vicinity of the place, which most historians call the possible location of the ancient settlement, can be literally translated as "first", but not in number, but in importance. Perhaps this is the stream on which the first most important person lived - the ruler who collected tribute. But since this territory (as mentioned above) was not inhabited by the Nenets, it can be assumed that a medieval city stood on the high bank of this stream in the place where it flows into the Pur. At the same time, it was protected by water on both sides, and its high location made it possible to provide a reliable defense from the raids of local warlike tribes. It is noteworthy that this stream is not susceptible to freezing and freezing in cold winters, which means that the problem with drinking water among the inhabitants of the ancient city was solved simply and practically. And in a sufficiently deep mouth of the stream, it was possible to reliably save the kochi from spring ice drift and autumn freeze-up.
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SOURCE OF INFORMATION AND PHOTOS:
Team nomad
Kushelevsky Yu. I. The North Pole and the Yalmal Land: Travel Notes. - SPb .: Type. Ministry of Internal Affairs, 1868 .-- II, 155 p.
Yalmal // Brockhaus and Efron Encyclopedic Dictionary: In 86 volumes (82 volumes and 4 additional). - SPb., 1890-1907.
A brief account of the trip to the Yamal Peninsula: (Read in the general collection of I.R.G.O. 19 Feb. 1909) / B. M. Zhitkov p. 20. Retrieved 15 February 2012.
http://t-i.ru/
Elena Mazneva, Maxim Tovkaylo. At the end of the earth // Vedomosti, 25.09.2009, 181 (2451)
IA "SEVER-PRESS"
http://www.edu.severodvinsk.ru/after_school/nit/2012/polyanin/mifs.html# Gods
LNG technology is a promising option for developing gas resources on the Yamal Peninsula // gasforum.ru
German Burkov, Valentina Karepova Vladimir Ignatyuk - a man and an icebreaker // Arctic Star: Journal. - Murmansk, 2009. - V. No. 9 of September 25.
Zhitkov B.M., Yamal Peninsula. - SPb .: Type. M. M. Stasyulevich, 1913. - X, 349 p.
Evladov V.P. In the tundra I-mala. - Sverdlovsk: Gosizdat, 1930 .-- 68 p. - 5,000 copies.
Kozlov V. Polar trading post. - Sverdlovsk: UralOGIZ, 1933 .-- 184 p. - 10,000 copies.
Yamal / Yastrebov E.V. // Ex-libris - Yaya. - M.: Soviet encyclopedia, 1978. - (Great Soviet encyclopedia: in 30 volumes / chief ed. A. M. Prokhorov; 1969-1978, vol. 30).
http://www.photosight.ru/
photo S. Vagaev, S. Anisimov, A. Snegirev, G. Shpikalov, E. Zinchuk.
Orientation without a map
Yamal Peninsula (23 photos)
Yamal Peninsula (23 photos)
Map of Tver region Road map of Tver region detailed villages
Old topographic maps of the Tula province Old villages in the Tula region